The humble north-west Tuscan town of Camaiore sits, at least at sunrise, in the shadow of the three imposing peaks of Mount Prana, Mount Matanna, and western-most Mount Gabberi. These reference points, visible from the town square, the Giardino Murato (the rose-woven central park opposite the library), the main street; from the north-facing windows of apartments and from the backyards of most people’s homes - are constant reminders of the majesty of nature, as well as being a useful point of reference when finding your way around. The mountains inform the lives of people who live here; like salt water informs the lives of those who grew up in the surf. They are a sort of silent companion, and those few who move away feel their absence like a lost mate.
The mountains form the coastal side of the Alpi Apuane: a UNESCO-listed Global Geopark that the vast majority of visitors to Tuscany will never quite stumble across, in large part simply because for now, it is lower-profile than its eastern neighbour, the famous Chianti.
And it is precisely the fact that ‘brand Tuscany’ is built on the reputation and imagery of stretching runs of rolling hills, hectares of Sangiovese, and endless pale blue skies that makes the contrast of this wild, rugged region so surprising. The other remarkable element is the weather. Coastal warmth shifts east off the sea, then rebounds off the town-facing sides of the mountains, creating a microclimate characterised by warmth and a humidity that’s more reminiscent of Far North Queensland than the Tuscany you know.
There are so many precious places and people in the park’s deep valleys and on its luscious trails, but among the most surprising is an area listed by The Guardian as one of the five best natural swimming spots in Italy. The water is cold, clear, and an excellent antidote to any excessive food or wine-induced cobwebs in the body.
Accessible in half an hour on foot from the centre of town, the trail network that spindles off from the waterfall like a choose-your-own adventure will take you, no matter which path you choose, up and up, along swimming holes and ancient river settlements where evidence of life before industrial revolution still exists. Walk on to another tiny village, set in the side of the mountain and famous for its street art which immortalises the history of the town on its walls (as well as having *the* best panini - and views over the valley to the sea - along the trail). From here, you can head towards the coast and Mount Gabberi, keep ascending to Matanna, or cruise along the side of the mountain towards the final stop on The Waterfalls Walk: a village saved from the abandonment suffered by so many other tiny Italian villages, through the passion of a small handful of people who have carefully, gracefully and faithfully restored its houses, which are now available for rent.
The star of this spot though, is its little restaurant, which serves up local dishes, done simply, but so well. The entrance is tucked away and tricky to find, but once you’re through the front door the hospitality of the hosts, and the views to the sea, will make you wish it was your local. Looking across the valley, the trails seem invisible; a secret network, unless you know it. The first time I sat staring across, Nicola tried pointing out landmarks, breaks in the foliage, a few rare glimpses of pathways, but they were then and they still are now, indiscernable to my untrained, Aussie eyes.
This is fairytale land. Especially early in the morning, or on autumn evenings as the light weaves through the canopies, there is an otherworldliness about the forest, save for any cinghiale (wild boar) that might transverse bulldoze their way down a hill. Forget rolling hills, hay bales, genteel wine tasting and choking on crowds on the Ponte Vecchio or in Piazza del Campo. There are not yet influencers tottering on the cliff faces with designer handbags or in bikinis ready for the Instagram shot.
The return to the waterfall is a short leg, downhill, doable (*with care*), even after lunch and a glass of local wine. And if you’ve packed your bathers, the perfect end to this round-trip hike is a dunk in the waterfall from where you set out, before heading back into Camaiore for an aperitivo.
Get in touch to book your Waterfalls Walk with us.
CONTACT US
Get in touch with us to design your next Tuscan escape.